Break the Circle

If the eyes are the window to the soul, think of dark circles as a dimmer switch: easy to brighten with the right approach. According to GP and aesthetics expert Dr Priya Verma, it’s something women bring up all the time: “Patients might say they’ve got dark rings, but they’ll talk most about how it makes them feel tired and old.” Of course, we want to look as energised as we feel.

Disguising dark circles is something makeup artist Ruby Hammer is often quizzed about. “People want to look invisibly fresher, not caked with makeup,” she says. “While a good concealer is vital, it’s not the first product you should reach for. I use an undereye mask first to de-puff, smooth and
brighten.” Skin Control Under Eye Jelly Masks ($13, Chemist Warehouse) can be worn for up to two hours before makeup application, locking in a ceramide, collagen and peptide serum
blend that leaves skin glassy and illuminated. Eye cream is a balancing act, though. “Hydrating well helps concealer blend, but don’t overdo it or your concealer will slide,” says Ruby. We like Teoxane R [II] Eyes ($110, teoxane.com.au) which has a cooling applicator to help massage and depuff, is lightly tinted to visibly brighten and its texture works beautifully under makeup.

To Hide Fatigue

When dark circles are down to late nights, “A good lightweight, buildable concealer with a radiant finish can be enough,” Ruby says. “You want something that reflects light rather than masking everything with heaviness.” IT Cosmetics Do It All Radiant Concealer ($60, Sephora) is great. A light touch will stop the product sitting in fine lines, advises Ruby. “You only need a tiny amount to correct. The biggest mistake is thinking that more product equals more coverage. It doesn’t, it just exaggerates texture. I use a small brush to apply precisely without overloading the area. Place concealer only where the shadows fall, then tap and blend it outwards. Never drag it down too far. You want to lift and illuminate, not smother the entire under-eye area.” Celebrity makeup artist Hannah Martin advocates a ‘final pat and blend’ at the end of your makeup application to whisk away any excess concealer that might have settled. “It makes all the difference to stopping creasing.”

To Fix Dark Pigmentation Rings

Hold fire on the concealer! For darker circles, typically caused by pigmentation, you’ll need a neutralising underlayer first. “If you apply concealer straight on to dark circles without correcting, the area can turn ashy or grey,” says mature makeup guru, Grace Fodor. “Pigmented circles generally have a blue or purple undertone, which you can neutralise with a peach or orange colour corrector,” advises Ruby. Bobbi Brown Skin Corrector Stick ($60, bobbibrown.com.au) is brilliant, as is Kind Collective’s Cover Up Colour Correcting Concealer ($19, Priceline).

Don’t be fazed by the corrector shade, this is only step one, explains Grace. “Press the corrector in with a fingertip, focusing on the areas of deepest discolouration. Then, once it’s fully settled, apply a light layer of concealer in a shade that closely matches your skin tone. This will help dark rings vanish.” Even if you have very dark circles, it’s better to layer sheer formulas rather than using thick cover-ups. Grace advises stepping back and really looking in the mirror. “This will show if you need more concealer. If you do, add a second, very thin layer only where needed!”

What Skincare Actually Helps?

Start with moisturising basics such as hyaluronic acid, glycerine and ceramides, advises medical consultant and skin specialist, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. “If your under-eye area is dry, it’ll appear darker. Experts agree that corrective eye creams really can make a difference, given time. Look for ingredients that support skin thickness, collagen production, brightness and de-puffing, such as peptides, niacinamide and caffeine, says Dr Verma. “Be patient; it takes 12-plus weeks.” Murad Renewing Eye Cream ($138, Sephora) is packed with brightening actives alongside advanced peptides and retinol to reduce the appearance of dark circles and fine lines. Caffeine can temporarily reduce the appearance of underlying blood vessels, which show through thin skin to create a dark appearance: Innisfree Green Tea Caffeine Bright Eye Serum ($35, Priceline) is a great pick. Dr Ejikeme also rates Vitamin C. “It slows the changes caused by oxidative stress and helps to gently brighten and reduce pigmentation. With regular daily use, expect to see brightening in 12 to 24 weeks.”

Retinoids can be helpful in low doses around the eyes, says Dr Ejikeme, boosting cell turnover and thickening the under-eye skin, which reduces the appearance of dark circles. Look for encapsulated, eye-safe formulas.” Prevention picks include Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye ($85, medik8.com.au) and RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing Eye Cream ($34.99, Chemist Warehouse).

Are At-Home Devices Worth a Try?

Red LED light helps bolster collagen and elastin, which can benefit dark circles, says oculoplastic surgeon Dr Maryam Zamani. “Cryo tools temporarily improve poor circulation and puffiness, as can cucumbers or a cold spoon.” Take your pick!

Can Treatments Help Dark Circles?

In-clinic treatments can be effective but, as Dr Sommerlad notes, “There isn't a one-size-fits-all solution so it’s vital to work out the underlying cause.” It could be the result of hollowing.

“Under-eye hollowness becomes more common with age, as we lose fat, collagen and elastin,” says Dr Verma. “This can create a dark appearance that’s due to shadowing rather than pigmentation.” She likes to start with injections of polynucleotides, bio-stimulating molecules, to improve skin quality. Polynucleotides are DNA chains derived from salmon sperm, which are used in professional in-clinic treatments such as Rejuran, one of the most well-known polynucleotide injectibles in Australia, though there are others on the market too. They won’t put back volume, but they will thicken and firm the delicate under-eye skin so you get a longer lasting and better aesthetic result from any fillers or boosters you use later. A course of two to three over several weeks is recommended.

The volume loss causing shadowing can then be plumped out with filler, but this is a treatment that needs a trusted professional with lots of experience in the under-eye area. “Done badly, there’s a risk of visible ‘sausage’ lumps,” says Dr Verma. Results are instant, but regular top ups are required.

Pigmentation is harder to address, notes Dr Sommerlad. “Firstly, treat any underlying medical causes. Anything that irritates the skin, such as chronic rubbing of the eyelid due to dermatitis, allergies or excess sun, can increase melanin production around the eyes, especially in those with skin of colour. Wearing UV400 sunglasses and daily sunscreen is essential to limit further pigmentation. Topical creams, such as niacinamide, azelaic acid and vitamin C, can help brighten, and retinoids may aid cell turnover to improve the excess pigment.”

In-clinic procedures to target pigmentation are usually a last resort, she says. “They only work if you’re meticulously using SPF and treating the underlying issues. Peels and lasers can potentially worsen pigmentation, so it’s vital to see a specialist in this area.” Be wary of under-eye filler if you have hyperpigmentation, she adds. “It may actually worsen its appearance!” Polynucleotides can help. They have a brightening effect that can subtly improve pigmentation, says Dr Verma. But dark circles caused by under-eye fat herniation can only be fixed by a lower eyelid blepharoplasty to surgically remove the fat bags, says Dr Zamani.

In the end, breaking the circle isn’t about perfection; it’s about understanding what your under-eyes are trying to tell you and responding with the right tools. Sometimes that’s a cooling mask and a touch of concealer, other times it’s skincare or a course of treatments. Whatever path you choose, the takeaway is simple: with thoughtful care, those shadowy rings can give way to a fresher, more lifted look; one that reflects how bright you really feel.