Retinoids remain the gold-standard for visible skin ageing. Prescription-strength options such as tretinoin and adapalene and non-prescription retinol, are backed by clinical evidence for regulating skin-cell turnover, brightening dullness, easing breakouts and fading uneven tone. They also support collagen and elastin, softening lines and improving firmness over time. The catch: retinoids can be irritating, especially on dry or mature skin.
Dermatologists increasingly recommend a technique called retinol sandwiching to dial down redness, stinging and flaking without losing results.
“Your order of HA serum, then retinol and barrier cream is textbook. Think of it as priming, painting and then protecting,” says dermatologist Dr Mona Gohara. “Retinol sandwiching is tailor-made for sensitive or dry skin types. It helps people build tolerance without the flaking, redness or stinging that often make them stop. It’s like training wheels for retinoids.”
What is retinol sandwiching?
A dermatologist-approved method popularised on social media, retinol sandwiching layers hydration and barrier support around the active. The aim is to keep the ingredient effective while minimising irritation.
How to retinol-sandwich (night routine)
- Prime with hydration: On clean, dry skin, apply a lightweight, water-based serum with humectants such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin.
- Paint with retinoid: Smooth a pea-sized amount of retinol or a prescription retinoid over the face. Avoid the immediate eye corners, creases of the nose and lips if these areas tend to sting.
- Protect the barrier: Finish with an emollient barrier-repair moisturiser over the top.
Start two or three nights a week, then step up as tolerated. If skin becomes tight or flaky, pause for a night and focus on moisturiser only before resuming.
Does sandwiching make retinol less effective?
No. “Retinol is a small, lipophilic molecule, so it can slip through lightweight, water-based hydrators,” explains Dr Gohara. “Following with a heavier cream seals in moisture and minimises irritation but won’t dilute the active.”
Who should modify or skip it?
“If you have acne-prone or very oily skin, go easy on the heavier top layer or skip it entirely,” says Dr Gohara. Those with persistently irritated skin, eczema or rosacea should check in with a GP or dermatologist for a tailored plan.
The bottom line
Retinol sandwiching is a simple, affordable way to stay consistent with retinoids and still keep the barrier calm—key for over-50 skin. Hydrate, apply the active, then lock it in with moisturiser. Consistency delivers the results.
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