Retinol is a long-standing skincare staple. This clinically proven topical ingredient has been used for decades to help fade hyperpigmentation and support collagen and elastin production. More recently, bakuchiol has entered the chat, with claims of similar anti-ageing results. So, which makes more sense for skin goals and tolerance: retinol or bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol (pronounced bah-koo-chee-all) is a plant extract derived from the leaves and seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, also known as the babchi plant. “It delivers retinol-like benefits through different biochemical pathways, making it gentler and easier to tolerate,” says dermatologist Dr Mona Gohara.
The key question is potency. Can bakuchiol deliver results comparable to retinol, or does it mainly appeal because it feels kinder on sensitive skin? Here’s what to know about how the two ingredients compare and when each one fits best.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and a milder, over-the-counter version of prescription retinoids such as tretinoin. “Retinol is converted into retinoic acid in the body and binds to receptors that increase collagen and elastin to help soften fine lines and firm skin,” says Dr Gohara. It also speeds up cell turnover, which can help even out texture and brighten skin tone over time.
Retinol tends to work more slowly than prescription-strength retinoids, but it still has strong evidence behind it. “While it’s more indirect and less potent than prescription-strength retinoids, it’s still proven to be very effective, although the benefits are more gradual,” says Dr Gohara. Research has linked retinol use with improvements in signs of photoageing, including wrinkles, discolouration and skin laxity
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol works differently to retinol, but it can still influence similar skin-supporting processes. “Bakuchiol doesn’t convert into retinoic acid, but it activates many of the same downstream gene targets, including those involved in collagen synthesis,” says Dr Gohara. She adds that it can support antioxidant defences, reduce oxidative stress and inflammation and suppress MMPs, enzymes that break down collagen.
Those effects can translate to smoother-looking skin, more even tone and better firmness, with a lower risk of irritation. “All of that means that bakuchiol helps preserve firmness and smoothness and improves skin tone, but without the irritation that retinol may trigger,” says Dr Gohara. “Bakuchiol also has anti-inflammatory properties, which help calm redness in the skin.”
Retinol vs. bakuchiol: Which is better for sensitive skin?
Bakuchiol often suits sensitive skin better because it tends to cause less dryness, stinging and peeling than retinol. Research has found bakuchiol can deliver similar improvements in fine lines and pigmentation, but with a gentler feel. “It’s a milder ingredient,” says Gohara, “so it’s less irritating but also works more gradually, but it is studied and proven to have multiple skin benefits. There are several controlled studies showing improvements in wrinkles, elasticity, pigmentation and photoageing. The data is promising, though not as deep as retinol’s decades of research.”
Retinol vs. Bakuchiol: Which is stronger?
Retinol generally acts faster and more forcefully. Both ingredients support collagen and help regulate skin cell turnover, but bakuchiol is usually the softer option. “Think of retinol as a power tool and bakuchiol as a really good manual tool,” says Dr Gohara. “Both get the job done, but one works faster and with more force.”
Bakuchiol can be a strong pick for reactive or eczema-prone skin because it is gentler than retinol. “Unlike retinol, bakuchiol is not photosensitising, so you can use it during the day,” says Dr Gohara.
Bakuchiol is also widely considered a pregnancy-safe option, while vitamin A derivatives and retinoids are typically avoided during pregnancy.
The bottom line
Sensitive skin that flares with retinol, including irritation, redness, dryness and flaking, may do better with bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is also considered a safer option during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.
“While retinol and prescription retinoids are still the most effective options for collagen building, skin cell turnover, and preventing acne breakouts, bakuchiol is a great, gentle choice to get smoother, brighter, firmer skin with less irritation,” says Dr Gohara.
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