The Different Types of Peptides, Explained

Whatever our skincare goals, most of us can agree on one thing: healthy, vibrant-looking skin is always in. But when it comes to achieving the complexion of your dreams, it seems as if the beauty world is always trumpeting about yet another buzzy ingredient you “need.”

Peptides in skincare, while increasingly popular, have been around for years, and they’re the real deal when it comes to maintaining youthful skin. Peptides are composed of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins.

How do peptides work for skin?

The use of peptide serums can make skin look firmer by helping replenish some of the collagen and elastin (proteins in the skin) that we lose as we age as well as by repairing damage, hydrating, and enhancing overall appearance, says dermatologist Dr Karan Lal.

But as you search for the right peptide serum or cream, you may encounter a wide array of scientific terms and ingredients, as different types of peptides have varying effects on the skin. While many products contain a combination of peptides, it’s helpful to know how these ingredients work so you can make the right choice for yourself.

How to choose a peptide serum that’s right for you

Signal peptides: for firmness

“These work by sending a message to the skin to stimulate production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins,” explains dermatologist Dr Marisa Garshick.

Dr Lal suggests looking for products containing Matrixyl 3000, a peptide complex that he notes has the ability to boost collagen production. Other common signal peptides include palmitoyl tripeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide, and palmitoyl oligopeptide.

Neurotransmitter peptides: for smoothing

“These peptides block the release of chemicals that lead to muscle contraction. In this way, neurotransmitter peptides are thought to have a benefit for expression lines, similar to the effect of Botox,” says Dr Garshick.

One of those peptides is Argireline, which Dr Lal says works well for softening wrinkles. Neurotransmitter peptides, commonly marketed as “Botox in a bottle,” are not as effective as the injectable alternatives but have been shown to noticeably improve fine lines, especially around the eyes.

Carrier peptides: for nourishing

These peptides help with wound healing and collagen production by delivering minerals, such as copper and magnesium, to skin, says Dr Garshick. Like signal peptides, carrier peptides are excellent at improving skin firmness, repairing the skin barrier, and softening texture and wrinkles. “They’re thought to work by boosting collagen and elastin production, thereby improving skin texture,” says Dr Garshick.

Growth factor peptides: for repair

“While growth factors exist naturally in the body, [but] with age their levels decrease,” Dr Garshick explains. “Important for wound healing, growth factors can help support collagen production and skin regeneration.”

As they do a remarkable job at encouraging collagen production, they are often used in anti-aging and wrinkle-reducing products. If you see “oligopeptides” or “human-derived fibroblast media” on an ingredient list, you’ll know the product contains effective growth factors, says Dr Lal.

Our peptide picks

Renew your complexion with these hard-working peptide products.

The Ordinary Argireline Solution 10%
This lightweight, advanced serum targets the appearance of dynamic facial lines, especially around the eyes and forehead.

Essano Needle-Free Filler Concentrated Serum
An innovative copper peptide serum to reduce lines, enhance collagen and improve suppleness.

Weleda Firming Day Cream Pomegranate and Maca Peptides
This rich, wrinkle-reducing natural moisturiser contains antioxidants and peptides
for a firmer complexion.

No 7 Future Renew Repair Night Cream
A hydrating, lightweight, peptide-powered night cream to soothe, smooth and brighten your skin while you sleep.

Douglas Pereira Skin Health EGF Peptide Serum
Lift, plump and firm your skin, while boosting collagen production and luminosity
in the process, with this potent peptide serum.

FreezeFrame 48 Hour Wrinkle Freeze Ice Roller Mask
Harnessing wrinkle-reducing peptides and cryotherapy, this mask smooths skin in minutes.