It is normal for lips to lose colour and fullness with age. Blood flow to the area slows, collagen production dips and the vermilion border (the line that defines the edge of the lips) can soften. All of this can make lips look paler and less defined, even when the rest of the face has makeup on.
Makeup artist Bobbi Brown says the right shade and texture can bring back a naturally vibrant look without heavy products or harsh lines.
The simple trick to find your most flattering lip colour
Brown recommends using your own lips as the colour guide instead of guessing from the tube.
“While trial and error really is the best way to find the ideal lip color, one trick can point you in the right direction,” Brown notes. “Gently bite your lip, then use the color that appears after a few seconds as a guide.”
That post-pinch flush is your built-in reference shade. For many people it looks like a soft rose, berry or muted red. Choosing a lipstick, balm or tint that sits close to that colour usually gives a “your lips but better” effect that works for everyday wear and pairs easily with most makeup looks.
How to use the trick in store or at home
- Gently bite or pinch your lips and wait a few seconds
- Notice the tone that appears: more pink, peach, berry or red
- Look for products described with similar words (for example “rose” or “soft berry”)
- Swatch on the back of the hand or along the jawline and check in natural light
Custom-blending a shade that matches your natural pout
Brown points out that lip tones are highly individual, so some people may not find an exact match straight from a single product. “You can make your own bespoke lipcolor by combining various products until you find your perfect match."
To build a personalised shade:
- Start with the closest match - Pick the lipstick, crayon or tint that most closely resembles your post-pinch lip colour.
- Adjust depth - To deepen the colour, layer a slightly darker pencil or stain underneath. To soften it, blot with tissue or tap on a little clear balm to sheer it out
- Adjust undertone - If it looks too cool or purple, tap a warm peach or coral tint over the top. If it leans too warm or orange, add a touch of a cooler pink or berry
- Finish with a touch of shine (optional) - A thin layer of clear or lightly tinted gloss in the centre of the lips can make them appear fuller without looking overdone.
Texture and finish: what works well as lips age
Once the colour is right, the texture can make a big difference to how fresh and full lips appear.
Cream and satin finishes
These usually flatter lip texture and lines more than very matte formulas. They reflect a little light, which helps lips look smoother.
Hydrating formulas
Look for products that include conditioning ingredients like oils, butters or hyaluronic acid to help keep lips comfortable through the day.
Soft definition instead of harsh lines
Using a lip pencil in a shade close to your natural lip colour can prevent feathering and gently reshape the lip line. Smudging the edge slightly with a fingertip keeps it looking modern and soft.
The bottom line
Lips naturally lose colour and definition with age, but a few strategic steps can bring back a healthy, natural-looking flush. Using the “bite test” to find your true lip tone, then custom-blending products to match it, creates a personalised shade that suits skin, hair and everyday style without the need for a drawer full of unused lipsticks.
Newsletter
